In a happy twist of Fate on my recent trip to beautiful Serbia, my Polish sister-in-law connected me to one of her dearest friends. Krsto had been her colleague, a fellow pastry chef at Claridges in London. Krsto had returned to his hometown Belgrade to open his own patisserie.

Little did I know that Krsto Radovic is a rising star in the European chocolate skyline. And what a treat I was in for meeting him.

We connected on WhatsApp and he very gallantly agreed to see me on his only day off that week, a day he had managed for himself after several hectic weeks of travel and work. More about that later.

I found my way there, and paused to admire the pots of lovely of yellow flowers heralding the storefront. They were a burst of colour in the bleak spring weather only just thawing in April after freak snowfall a few days earlier. It was bitterly cold and blustery in turns. The buildings on the street were newly restored post the Serbian War. The city had only just opened up to tourists and the vibe was infectiously friendly and optimistic. This was a city filled with Hope after years of communist suppression and then the ethnic cleansing of Croats and Serbs at war, a country ripped apart into so many pieces.

A bell tinkled as I entered the surprisingly modern glass storefront. I stood there, gobsmacked. Mandarina knocked the ball out of the park with its clean lines and modern interiors.

The inside of Mandarina is streamlined and trendy, in shades of white, teal and popping mandrin orange. Sleek glass lamps and a large glass window add to the modern vibe. The window was decorated with treats for Easter, in an untraditional way. Think edgy, wooly chicks and giant rainbow-hued Chocolate eggs, hanging nests and bright chocolate hens that you would think were made in Pottery Barn. Traditional, fussy, quaint or cute this was not. Mandarina could be in Paris or London or Tokyo and you wouldn’t know the difference except at the till where there is a little glass dish and a sign for tips saying ‘baksis’.

Clean lines, very little clutter and a single banquette across one wall for seating, the shop welcomes you to focus on its stars: stunning cakes of every colour and shape I had never seen before, chocolates in jewel-like hues, some traditional patisserie and a lot of nouvel entremets. I stood and gaped, entranced.

Two smiling and very lovely ladies served a line of locals waiting patiently for the weekend special, croissants (which just sold out in a wink). Children had their noses pressed against the glass display counters, trying to decide what to choose from the dazzling array of the most unusual and modern patisserie I have seen.

The aroma of good coffee filled the air as the barista worked the machine , steam hissing in the cold morning.

But best of all was that lovely aroma you get only in a bakery: fresh croissants and butter. And the deeper, subtler aroma of good Chocolate.

Krsto himself was down to earth and buzzing with ideas, energy and the thrill of living your own dream. Make no mistake, this is a man who has built his dream from scratch, working and learning and then taking that risk, where dream turns to reality. His story is remarkable in that he left the UK food scene to return home and build his own empire.

As we walked to a quaint tea room that was recently an antique store, he told me about his journey back home. How he left a war torn Serbia years ago, as a young man and worked his way up in kitchens in the UK , specialising in pastry and chocolate. How he met my beloved SIL, his days in London. And how he decided to return home to his old parents and his sister and open his own patisserie. Not just any old patisserie, but his idea of one. People were astounded. Why would anyone want to return to Belgrade, just limping back from a bloody war and open a pastry shop ?? He was met with so much skepticism, but his family stood by him. Baking runs in their blood. And his years honing his craft in England only enhanced his inherent talent for pastry.

Krsto’s is a family run venture and he seems to be doing it right because he has expanded very quickly, creating a niche for himself . He is much in demand as a consultant across eastern Europe and his enthusiasm and love for his work are both infectious. A spokesperson for Callebaut Chocolate, Krsto shared the latest trend in chocolate currently: a fourth hue, not white or dark or milk but PINK! I tasted delicious pink chocolate buttons, wholly natural thanks to a new way of processing the bean. The tour of the workshop in the cellar was so much fun. For a confirmed chocoholic like me, it was a real treat to see the Mandarina artists working with it in so many ways, creating art.

I left in a cloud of chocolate bliss, carting home a large selection of their goodies. Each one was a masterpiece by itself and was devoured precisely three seconds after a cursory ‘Oooh”from the Team back on set.

If you are ever in beautiful Belgrade, make sure you visit Mandarina. It would be a shame to miss their delicious concoctions.